Assalamualaikum.
We kicked off our eleventh day of Umrah—and our fifth in Madinah—with a delicious, hearty breakfast.
I really need to watch my portions, otherwise I’ll be heading home with a few extra kilograms! It’s easier said than done, though—the full-board meals are just too delicious to resist. 😅
Admiring the majestic minarets of Masjid an-Nabawi from our vantage point at Bada'ah Square on the city's north side.
One great way to explore Madinah is via the City Sightseeing 'Hop-On Hop-Off' (HOHO) bus. Even though we had already completed the Madinah Ziyarat tour organized by Andalusia, my wife and I decided to take the HOHO bus to experience the city from a different perspective. Conveniently, its first stop is at Bada'ah Square, just a short walk from our hotel, Al Ritz Al Madina.
City Sightseeing Al Madinah offers a convenient way to explore Islam's second-holiest city via its 24-hour Hop-On Hop-Off (HOHO) bus tour. This service features open-top, double-decker buses and includes 12 strategically placed stops across two main routes, allowing you to discover major religious, historical, and cultural landmarks at your own pace.
📘Tour Routes and Key Stops
The tour is divided into two distinct lines that cover different aspects of the city's heritage.
🔹Green Route (The Spiritual Core): Focuses on the immediate area around the Prophet's Mosque.
- Al-Masjid an-Nabawi: The central landmark where Prophet Muhammad is buried.
- Al-Baqi Cemetery: The final resting place for many of the Prophet's companions and relatives.
- Al-Manakha Square: A historic open area near the main mosque.
🔹Red Route (Historical & Modern Madinah): Explores sites further from the center, including famous battlefields and shopping hubs.
- Uhud Battlefield: Site of the historic battle, featuring the Archers' Hill and the Martyrs' Cemetery.
- Quba Mosque: Recognized as the first mosque in Islamic history.
- Masjid al-Qiblatayn: Where the direction of prayer was changed from Jerusalem to Mecca.
- The Seven Mosques (The Trench Battlefield): Commemorating the site of the Battle of the Trench.
- Al-Noor Mall: A popular stop for shopping and dining.
- Hejaz Railway Museum: Showcases the history of the Ottoman-era railway.
📘Ticket
The official price for a 24-hour City Sightseeing Al Madinah ticket is 80.00 SAR to 90.00 SAR for adults. Prices vary slightly depending on where you purchase, with some platforms like Klook offering it for roughly RM 100 (~21.25 USD).
🔹Ticket Pricing Breakdown
According to the official City Sightseeing Al-Madinah booking portal, the standard rates are:
• Adult (13+ years): 90.00 SAR (~24.00 USD).
• Child (5–12 years): 40.00 SAR (~10.66 USD).
• Family Package: 220.00 SAR (~58.65 USD), which typically covers 2 adults and 2 children.
• Infants (Under 5 years): Usually Free.
🔹Where to Buy
• Online: You can book through official sites or third-party platforms like Viator and Musement.
• In-Person: Ticket kiosks are located outside the main gates of Al-Masjid an-Nabawi, specifically near red-colored counters at Gates 330, 334, or 336.
📘Practical Tour Information
🔹Ticket Validity: Passes are typically valid for 24 hours from first use.
🔹Audio Guide: On-board commentary is available in 16 languages, including English, Arabic, Malay, and Urdu, with a special kids' commentary track.
- Operating Hours:
o Morning Shift: 5:30 am – 1:30 pm.
o Evening Shift: 4:00 pm – 12:00 am.
o Note: During Ramadan, hours often shift to 9:00 pm – 9:00 am to accommodate evening worship.
- On-board Features: Buses are equipped with free Wi-Fi and are wheelchair accessible.
📘Essential Visitor Tips
🔹Dress Code: Visitors must dress conservatively. Modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees is required for entry to religious sites.
🔹Timing: To avoid peak heat, early morning and late evening are the best times for sightseeing.
🔹Ramadan Visits: The city has a unique spiritual atmosphere during this month, but it is much more crowded.
🔹Booking: You can book tickets online via platforms like City Sightseeing or Visit Saudi to avoid queues.
The HOHO bus ticket costs SAR 90 per person and is valid for 24 hours, allowing you to hop on and off at any designated stop. Just be sure to keep your ticket safe, as you'll need to present it each time you re-board. If you prefer to stay on for the full circuit like we did, the entire loop around Madinah takes about two hours.
We opted for the top deck of the double-decker bus to enjoy the views. While the winter sun makes the open-air seating pleasant, don't forget a jacket! The breeze becomes surprisingly chilly as soon as the bus starts moving.
The view from the open upper deck of the HOHO bus. If you prefer to stay out of the wind, there are also covered seats at the front.
All passengers receive free earphones to listen to the audio guide. The commentary is available in several major languages, including Indonesian. Since our national language, Bahasa Malaysia, is quite similar to Indonesian, my wife and I had the choice of listening in either English or Indonesian.
As the bus pulled away, the audio guide began with a general introduction to the history and layout of Madinah.
Major constructions near Masjid an-Nabawi (right).
From the upper deck of the City Sightseeing Al Madinah bus, you can see some of Madinah's most significant thoroughfares and modern infrastructure. The morning light highlights the mix of traditional architecture and new construction, such as the large projects currently visible near the central haram zone.
King Fahd Road: This is one of the main arteries you'll travel along, especially as you head toward the Uhud Battlefield. The right side of your image, showing the large King Fahd Underpass (a major tunnel), is a central feature of this route near the Prophet’s Mosque.
You can see a skyline of luxury hotels that line King Fahd Road, providing high-end accommodations just steps from Al Masjid an-Nabawi. These blocks represent the primary hotel hub for pilgrims, characterized by large, modern buildings designed to handle high volumes of guests while providing quick pedestrian access to the holy sites.
The hotels in the images are part of the prominent North-Central area and include:
🔹Al Mukhtara International Hotel: This hotel is a 3-star property recognized for its central location and distinctive facade with dark geometric patterns.
🔹Sofitel Shahd Al Madinah: A luxury 5-star retreat located right on King Fahd Road, blending French hospitality with local traditions and offering direct access to the Haram Plaza.
🔹Madinah Hilton: A major landmark on King Fahd Road situated directly opposite the Prophet’s Mosque, known for its Art Deco-style architecture and prime views.
🔹Anwar Al Madinah Mövenpick: A large 5-star complex linked to a shopping mall, frequently seen as the bus moves through Bada'ah Square toward the mosque’s northern gates.
🔹Millennium Al Aqeeq Hotel: Another luxury option nearby, this 5-star hotel is often visible on the circuit, offering upscale amenities in the heart of the city's commercial and religious center.
From the open upper deck of the City Sightseeing Al Madinah bus, traveling along King Fahd Road provides one of the most stunning and atmospheric approaches to Mount Uhud.
🔹Scenic Silhouettes: As the bus moves north, the mountain's rugged, reddish-brown peaks dominate the skyline. The early morning light accentuates the volcanic and igneous rock textures of the 7.5-kilometer-long range.
🔹A Sanctuary of Love: This is the mountain about which the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) famously said, "Uhud is a mountain that loves us and we love it". Seeing its massive presence from the top deck allows for a moment of quiet reflection on this unique spiritual bond.
🔹Historic Battlefield: The slopes visible from the road are the site of the pivotal Battle of Uhud (625 CE). From our vantage point, we can appreciate the strategic scale of the terrain where the early Muslim community faced its greatest test of steadfastness and discipline.
🔹Modern Accessibility: The images show how this ancient landmark is now beautifully integrated with modern Madinah. Paved highways like King Fahd Road offer a smooth, panoramic journey toward the Martyrs' Cemetery at the mountain's base.
Al'andalus Alraqi Complex.
The image shows the ruins of Masjid Bani Ghifar, an ancient mosque located on the southeastern side of Jabal Sela (Mount Sela) in Medina, Saudi Arabia.
📘Historical Significance
🔹Prophet's Prayer Site: The mosque commemorates a location where the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) is recorded to have performed prayers.
🔹Cultural Context: It is one of over a hundred historic Islamic landmarks in the Madinah and Makkah regions that have been preserved to consolidate religious and cultural heritage.
Asharq Al-Awsat English
🔹Architectural Style: The ruins feature traditional Islamic architectural elements,
including prominent arched structures that blend with the rocky landscape of Mount Sela. Some researchers note similarities in the construction to Ottoman-era architectural works.
📘Location & Access
🔹Position: It is situated approximately 700 meters northwest of Al-Masjid an-Nabawi (the Prophet's Mosque).
🔹Alternative Names: In some contemporary contexts, the site is also associated with or referred to as the Cave of Bani Haram (or Kahf Bani Haram).
🔹Visiting: The site is part of the historic landmarks in Medina that are now open to visitors for sightseeing and spiritual exploration.
From the open-air deck of the HOHO bus, the view along King Fahd Road perfectly illustrates Madinah’s evolution into a world-class cosmopolitan hub.
The infrastructure highlights this balance between rapid modernization and heritage preservation:
🔹Advanced Urban Connectivity: The multi-lane highways and elevated flyovers seen in your photos are designed for high-capacity traffic. This modern road network, featuring stylish arched lamp posts, ensures seamless movement for millions of pilgrims while offering panoramic views of the city’s expansion.
🔹Architectural Fusion: The buildings, such as the prominent Novotel (visible on the top right), showcase a bold "New Madinah" aesthetic. These structures use contemporary materials like glass and steel but often incorporate geometric patterns and desert-toned palettes that pay homage to traditional Islamic design.
🔹Infrastructure for Hospitality: The landscape is dominated by massive hotel complexes designed to provide 5-star comfort on a grand scale. This development is a direct response to the Saudi Vision 2030 goal of expanding capacity while modernizing the city’s skyline.
🔹Heritage Integration: Even as skyscrapers rise, the urban planning maintains wide plazas and clear sightlines toward the Prophet’s Mosque, ensuring that the city’s spiritual heart remains the focal point amidst the growing cosmopolitan environment.
This view from a King Faisal Road flyover captures Madinah in transition. As the city prepares to host 30 million annual pilgrims by 2030, the landscape reveals a stark contrast: traditional low-rise quarters on the right are making way for the modern, high-capacity hotel towers, which blend Islamic motifs with contemporary hospitality.
This is the The Emirate of Madinah (Governor’s House)
🔹Official Name: The Emirate of Al-Madinah Al-Munawwarah Province (also known as Qasr al-Emara or the Governor's Palace).
🔹Location: Situated on Omar bin al-Khattab Road, roughly 21 km from the airport.
🔹Role: It serves as the region’s administrative headquarters, overseeing justice, public services, and development.
🔹Leadership: The current Governor is Prince Salman bin Sultan bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, who represents the King in the region.
The morning sun creates a striking atmosphere in Madinah, casting a warm, golden glow over the city’s rapidly evolving landscape. From your vantage point on the elevated roadway, the illumination highlights several key features:
🔹Golden Hour Radiance: The low angle of the morning sun bathes the glass facades of modern buildings and the concrete of the flyovers in a soft, amber light. This "golden hour" effect softens the industrial edges of the construction cranes and unfinished structures, giving the entire scene a serene, hopeful feel.
🔹Atmospheric Haze: A delicate morning mist or dust haze hangs over the city in the distance, partially obscuring the horizon. This creates a beautiful "layered" effect, where the nearby roads are sharp and clear, while the minarets and palm trees in the background appear as soft silhouettes against the pale blue sky.
🔹Contrast of Light and Shadow: The bright sunlight reflects brilliantly off the white surfaces of the passing buses and cars, creating a sharp contrast with the long, deep shadows cast by the buildings and streetlights. This play of light emphasizes the scale and geometry of the city's modern infrastructure.
🔹Sparkling Architecture: The morning light catches the metallic and glass details of new developments, like the construction site on the left, making the city feel like it is literally "waking up" and growing as the day begins.
The mosque shown in below image is the Masjid Bilal ibn Rabah (also known as the Bilal Mosque or Bilal Masjid) in Madinah.
Key Details about Masjid Bilal
🔹Location: It is situated approximately 500 meters south of the Prophet's Mosque (Al-Masjid an-Nabawi).
🔹Significance: The mosque is named in honor of Bilal ibn Rabah, a close companion of Prophet Muhammad and the first muezzin (the person who calls Muslims to prayer) in Islamic history.
🔹Architecture: It features a distinctive green dome and a single, tall white minaret with a clock.
🔹Visitor Interest: It is a popular historical landmark and a peaceful spot for prayer. It is also well-known for the Masjid Bilal Market located adjacent to it, which is a busy hub for public and private transport in the area.
The HOHO bus also took us past the deeply historic Al-Baqi Cemetery, one of the most significant stops on the route.
Al-Baqi Cemetery (also known as Jannat al-Baqi or Baqi al-Gharqad) is the oldest and most significant Islamic cemetery in Madinah. Located directly southeast of the Prophet's Mosque (Al-Masjid an-Nabawi), it serves as the final resting place for approximately 10,000 companions of Prophet Muhammad, his wives, daughters, and many members of his household (Ahl al-Bayt).
📘Historical Significance
🔹Foundation: Established in 622 CE shortly after the Prophet's migration to Madinah, it was originally covered in boxthorn (Gharqad) trees.
🔹First Burials: As'ad ibn Zurarah (from the Ansar) and Uthman ibn Maz'un (from the Muhajirun) were the first companions buried here.
🔹Demolition: Historically, the cemetery featured many ornate mausoleums and domed shrines. These were demolished in 1806 and again in 1925/1926 by the Saudi government to adhere to strict interpretations of Islamic law regarding grave worship.
📘Notable Personalities Buried Here
The graves are currently unadorned and marked only by simple stones or small mounds of earth, making individual identification difficult without historical guides.
🔹Family Members: Imam Hasan ibn Ali, Imam Ali al-Sajjad, Imam Muhammad al-Baqir, and Imam Ja'far al-Sadiq.
🔹Prophet's Wives: Most of the "Mothers of the Believers," including Aisha, Hafsa, and Umm Salama (except Khadijah and Maymunah).
🔹Caliphs & Scholars: Uthman ibn Affan (the third Caliph) and Imam Malik ibn Anas (founder of the Maliki school of law).
📘Visitor Information
🔹Visiting Hours: The cemetery typically opens for roughly two hours twice daily: immediately after the Fajr (morning) and Asr (afternoon) prayers.
🔹Access Rules:
- Men: Entry inside the cemetery is permitted during designated hours via the western gate.
- Women: Generally restricted from entering the cemetery. Women can pay their respects and make dua from outside the boundary walls or from designated viewing areas along the perimeter.
🔹Etiquette: Visitors must maintain silence and decorum. Photography and video recording are strictly prohibited inside, and guards may confiscate devices used for filming.
🔹Dress Code: Modest and conservative clothing is required.
These images highlight the integrated pedestrian infrastructure of Madinah, which serves as the primary artery for pilgrims navigating between their hotels and the Prophet’s Mosque.
🔹Expansive Pedestrian Plazas: The walkways are wide and flat, designed to handle the massive flow of foot traffic during prayer times. The ground is paved with high-quality, heat-resistant stone featuring geometric Islamic patterns, blending traditional aesthetics with modern urban planning.
🔹Safe Navigational Corridors: These walkways effectively separate pedestrians from vehicle traffic using decorative bollards and raised curbs. This allows pilgrims to walk safely while enjoying unobstructed views of the city's modern hotel clusters and new commercial developments.
🔹Greenery and Amenities: To soften the urban landscape, the paths are lined with young trees and manicured planters. You can also see modern, ornate street lighting that provides safety and ambiance, ensuring the city remains navigable and beautiful at all hours.
🔹Seamless Integration: The images show how these arteries connect the "New Madinah"—characterized by luxury hotels like the Sofitel Shahd Al Madinah and Al Mukhtara International—directly to the spiritual heart of the city. The open space also provides popular gathering spots for pilgrims, such as the pigeon-feeding areas seen near the plaza.
Rose Holiday Hotel: The Rose Holiday Hotel group includes several properties in the central district of Madinah, known for their close proximity to Al Masjid an-Nabawi and Jannat al-Baqi.
ALBAIK is Saudi Arabia's most iconic fast-food chain, famous for its pressure-fried "broasted" chicken and signature garlic sauce. In Madinah, it is a must-visit for pilgrims and locals alike, known for offering high-quality meals at very affordable prices.
Stop No. 2: Al Safiyyah Museum & Park. A modern cultural hub featuring an immersive digital museum about the creation of the universe. A beautiful new landmark that combines culture, digital exhibits, and lush greenery.
These images capture a perfect perspective of how Madinah’s modern urban design honors its spiritual center. The tree-lined pedestrian corridor serves as a natural visual guide, drawing the eye directly toward the horizon where the minarets of Masjid an-Nabawi rise majestically.
📘The Morning Glow
The luminous morning sunlight creates a soft, ethereal backlight for the Prophet’s Mosque, making the famous Green Dome and the slender minarets appear as delicate silhouettes against the pale blue sky. This "white light" of the morning emphasizes the marble’s purity and the vast scale of the mosque complex.
📘Urban Oasis
🔹Symmetry and Scale: The straight, wide path—flanked by the distinct, wavy architecture of the Dar Al Taqwa Hotel on one side and the Sofitel Shahd Al Madinah on the other—creates a grand sense of arrival.
🔹Natural Softness: The rows of lush green trees provide a much-needed organic contrast to the beige and stone tones of the surrounding high-rises. In the cool morning air, these trees offer a refreshing, calm atmosphere for pilgrims making their way to the first prayers of the day.
🔹Ornate Lighting: The tall, decorative street lamps add a touch of traditional elegance, their golden detailing catching the early sun and framing the view of the mosque perfectly.
It’s a beautiful example of how the city’s expansion has been planned to ensure that, no matter how modern the surroundings become, the focus always remains on the Sacred Mosque.
This is Bani Khedrah, a vibrant, bustling area in the heart of Madinah's central district, known for its mix of modern hospitality and spiritual atmosphere.
📘Key Features & Atmosphere
🔹Pedestrian Walkways: The area features well-lit, tiled pedestrian walkways lined with greenery and distinctive yellow-flowering trees. These paths provide a calm, respectful environment for pilgrims moving toward Masjid an-Nabawi.
🔹Lively Commerce: It is a major hub for souvenir shopping, where visitors can find prayer mats, dates, perfumes, and local gifts.
🔹Modern Skyline: The district is flanked by contemporary high-rise buildings and luxury hotels, with the iconic minarets of the Prophet's Mosque visible as a constant guide.
📘Prominent Hotels in the Area
Several well-known luxury and mid-range hotels are located in or immediately adjacent to Bani Khidrah:
🔹Elaf Al Taqwa Hotel: An upmarket 5-star hotel known for panoramic mosque views and its location near Gate 309.
🔹Pullman Zamzam Madina: A 5-star property offering polished quarters and easy access to the Haram.
🔹Crowne Plaza Madinah: A highly-rated hotel set in a contemporary tower, popular for its modern amenities.
🔹Mysk Al Balad: A sleek, modern 3-star option situated directly within the Al Haram district of Bani Khidrah.
📘Navigating via HOHO Bus
While "Bani Khidrah Square" is not typically listed as a primary named stop, the district is very accessible via the City Sightseeing Al Madinah bus stops at Al Manakhah Square or the Al Hijaz Railway area, which are within easy walking distance.
The Al-Safiah Health Center (also referred to as the Al Safia Urgent Care Center) is a critical medical facility located right in the heart of Madinah's central district. It is specifically designed to provide prompt care for pilgrims and visitors to Al Masjid an-Nabawi.
The International Fair and Museum of the Prophet’s Biography and Islamic Civilization is a prominent cultural landmark in Madinah, located directly in front of Gate 307 on the southern side of the Prophet’s Mosque (Al Masjid an-Nabawi).
Opened in early 2021 under the supervision of the Muslim World League, this world-class interactive museum uses advanced technology to bring the life and legacy of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) to life.
The Prophet’s Mosque Expansion Exhibition is a specialized gallery that documents the architectural evolution of Al Masjid an-Nabawi from its humble beginnings to the massive, high-tech complex it is today.
📘Key Features
🔹Historical Timeline: The exhibition uses detailed 3D models, rare photographs, and digital displays to showcase every major expansion from the time of the Prophet (PBUH) through the Umayyad, Abbasid, and Ottoman eras, up to the modern Saudi expansions.
🔹The "Third Saudi Expansion": A major highlight is the focus on the current ongoing development project, which is set to significantly increase the mosque's capacity to host over two million pilgrims.
🔹Engineering Marvels: Visitors can learn about the intricate technical details behind the mosque's famous giant umbrellas, the sliding domes, and the state-of-the-art cooling and scenting systems.
Al-Ghamamah Mosque, also known as the "Mosque of the Clouds," is a deeply significant historical site located approximately 200–500 meters southwest of the Prophet's Mosque (Al Masjid an-Nabawi). It is easily recognized by its distinctive architecture featuring dark volcanic basalt stones and multiple domes.
This is Al-Manakha Square (also known as Manakha Square or Musalla Square), a historic open space located approximately 200 to 300 meters southwest of the Prophet’s Mosque (Al-Masjid an-Nabawi). It serves as a vital spiritual and cultural hub where Madinah’s deep Islamic history meets modern daily life.
📘Historical and Religious Significance
🔹The Prophet’s Marketplace: During the time of Prophet Muhammad, Al-Manakha was established as a tax-free commercial zone to ensure fair trade for all.
🔹Musalla al-Nabi: This area was the site of the original open-air prayer ground (Musalla) where the Prophet led Eid prayers, rain prayers (Salat al-Istisqa), and funeral prayers.
🔹Naming: The name "Al-Manakha" refers to the place where camels were knelt (anakh) to rest after long journeys.
📘Key Landmarks at the Square
The square is home to several small, historically significant mosques built with distinctive black basalt stone.
🔹Masjid al-Ghamama (Mosque of the Cloud): Built on the spot where a cloud reportedly shaded the Prophet while he prayed for rain.
🔹Masjid Abu Bakr As-Siddiq: Commemorates the site where the first Caliph, Abu Bakr, led Eid prayers.
🔹Masjid Ali ibn Abi Talib: Located on the site where the fourth Caliph, Ali, led prayers.
🔹Masjid Umar ibn al-Khattab: Dedicated to the second Caliph, known for his justice and leadership.
HOHO Bus Stop No.3: AlManahka Square
📘Visitor and Accessibility Tips
🔹Location: Situated in the Central Madinah district, overlooking the southwestern courtyards of the Prophet's Mosque.
🔹Getting There: If you are using the City Sightseeing Bus, hop off at the Al-Salam Stop (near Gate 310 of the Prophet's Mosque) and take a short 5–10 minute walk.
🔹Development: The area is currently part of the Al-Manakha Urban Project, which includes the construction of new hotel towers like the Al Manakha Rotana Madinah and renovated public walkways.
One of the checkpoints for the Quba Walkways buggy route.
This is the Comprehensive Government Service Center (Women) in Madinah, a central facility designed to provide various governmental transactions for female citizens and residents under one roof, specifically catering to the needs and privacy of women. The center hosts branches of multiple government agencies, allowing visitors to complete diverse tasks in a single visit. The center is staffed by qualified female professionals to ensure a comfortable environment for women.
The Emirate of Madinah (Governor’s House).
The following images showcase Madinah's modern urban landscape as a blend of large-scale infrastructure, high-density hospitality architecture, and organized greenery, all designed to facilitate the massive movement of pilgrims.
📘Key Features of Madinah’s Modern Landscape
🔹Integrated Infrastructure:
- Tiered Road Systems: The city uses sophisticated multi-level roads, including underpasses and tunnels (top left), to separate local traffic from major thoroughfares and maintain flow near the central area.
- Pedestrian-Centric Design: Wide, paved boulevards and walkways (bottom left) are a hallmark of the area surrounding the Prophet’s Mosque, prioritizing the safe movement of large crowds.
🔹High-Density Hospitality Architecture:
- Massive Hotel Complexes: The skyline is dominated by towering, uniform hotel blocks designed in a "Neo-Islamic" style—modern structures featuring traditional arches, patterned facades, and sand-toned stone (top right and bottom left).
- Modern Materials: New developments, like the buildings in the top-right image, incorporate large blue-tinted glass panels and sleek finishes while maintaining cultural motifs.
🔹Organized Urban Greenery:
- Landscaped Medians: Modern Madinah emphasizes "greening" the desert city with manicured lawns, palm trees, and flowering shrubs along roadways to reduce urban heat and provide visual relief (top right and bottom images).
🔹Distinctive Street Furniture:
- Ornate Lighting: Black, classical-style street lamps with multiple globes line the main boulevards, adding a touch of elegance and continuity to the streetscape (bottom images).
🔹Modern Public Transport:
- The presence of large sightseeing buses and organized transit lanes demonstrates a city built for high-capacity logistics and tourism.
This is the Masjid Ali bin Abi Talib (also known as Masjid Ali), a quiet yet deeply meaningful historical site in Madinah. Located in the Al-Manakhah district, it is roughly 290 meters west of the Prophet's Mosque (Masjid an-Nabawi) on As-Salam Road.
📘Key Details About the Mosque
🔹Significance: It is believed to be one of the locations where Sayyidina Ali ibn Abi Talib—the cousin and son-in-law of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH)—led prayers. It was also historically an open prayer ground (musalla) where the Prophet (PBUH) once performed Eid prayers.
🔹Architecture: The mosque is characterized by its simplicity and early Islamic style, featuring a rectangular prayer hall approximately 35 meters long. Its exterior is distinct for the use of black basalt stones on the eastern side contrasted with white limewashed walls elsewhere.
🔹Surroundings: It sits in Al Manakha Square (also called Musalla Square), a historic gathering point and marketplace. You can reach it easily on foot from the Prophet's Mosque or by the City Sightseeing Madinah (HOHO) bus.
🔹Unique Feature: Unlike many other mosques in the central area, this site is often noted for being remarkably quiet and is sometimes referred to as a "mosque without pigeons" because of its compact architecture.
This is the Western side of Masjid an-Nabawi.
The Western side of Masjid an-Nabawi is one of the most culturally and historically significant areas for pilgrims. It contains several landmark gates and historical sites that date back to the early years of Islam.
📘Historical Gates
The western wall is home to some of the mosque’s oldest and most iconic entrances:
🔹Bab as-Salam (Gate 1): Known as the "Gate of Peace," it is the most decorated gate of the mosque. Historically, it is the traditional entrance for pilgrims wishing to visit the Rawdah and offer salutations at the Prophet's (PBUH) grave.
🔹Bab Abu Bakr al-Siddiq (Gate 2): Situated next to Bab as-Salam, this gate was originally a small door (Khukhah) that led from the house of Abu Bakr al-Siddiq directly into the mosque.
🔹Bab al-Rahmah (Gate 3): The "Gate of Mercy" is another original gate established by the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH).
📘Key Landmarks & Sites
🔹Al-Manakhah Square: This historic open area on the western side was once a main marketplace and is where the Prophet (PBUH) reportedly said, "This is your market, so do not let it be diminished".
🔹Historical Mosques: The western side houses a cluster of small, ancient mosques in the Al-Manakhah area, including:
- Masjid Ali bin Abi Talib: Believed to be where the Prophet (PBUH) or Hazrat Ali (RA) offered prayers.
- Masjid Al-Ghamamah: Located a short walk southwest, where the Prophet (PBUH) prayed for rain.
🔹The Prophet's Mosque Library: Established on the western wing, the library houses historic copies of the Quran and significant religious manuscripts.
The Western side of Masjid an-Nabawi.
Masjid Ali bin Abi Talib.
This is Al Salam Endowment Hospital (also known as the Al-Salam Waqf Hospital), a state-of-the-art medical facility in Madinah that recently opened in August 2024. It is the first endowment hospital in Saudi Arabia, established through charitable contributions from philanthropists and organized by the Ehsan National Platform for Charitable Work.
The ruins of Masjid Bani Ghifar, an ancient mosque located on the southeastern side of Jabal Sela (Mount Sela).
The following images beautifully capture the dramatic visual dialogue between Madinah's modern urban expansion and its ancient, rugged history.
📘The Juxtaposition of Old and New
The landscape is defined by a striking contrast:
🔹The Ancient Backdrop: The massive, reddish-brown peaks of Mount Uhud dominate the horizon. Its timeless, jagged silhouette serves as a constant spiritual anchor, reminding pilgrims of the historic battle that took place at its base.
🔹Modern Urbanity: In the foreground, the city is a hive of 21st-century infrastructure. You see multi-lane expressways, sleek white high-rise buildings, and sophisticated road systems. The clean lines of the concrete barriers and modern streetlights sit in direct contrast to the weathered, natural textures of the mountain.
📘Improved Access and the Spiritual Journey
The development shown in your photos directly enhances the pilgrimage experience:
🔹Seamless Integration: The wide, well-paved roads (like the one featuring the City Sightseeing bus in the bottom-left) have transformed what was once a rugged trek into a comfortable and accessible journey.
🔹Dignified Arrival: Modern road networks allow pilgrims to travel from the Prophet's Mosque to Mount Uhud in minutes. This efficiency allows more time for quiet reflection at the Martyrs' Cemetery and the Archers' Hill rather than navigating difficult terrain.
🔹Visual Connection: The "open" feel of these boulevards ensures that the mountain is almost always in view, keeping the historical and spiritual significance of the site at the forefront of the traveler's mind as they approach.
This landscape isn't just about transport; it’s a deliberate design that honors the past by making it easier for the present generation to connect with it.
As the HOHO bus draws closer to Mount Uhud, the sheer scale of the ancient mountain becomes truly apparent. Seeing it from the open-air deck is an overwhelming experience; the massive peaks make the surrounding buildings and towering construction cranes look like tiny miniatures. I think that observation perfectly captures that unique "perspective shift" one only witnessed from the top deck of a HOHO bus. As we move toward the mountain, the scale of history truly begins to dwarf the scale of modern development.
📘The Scale of Significance
🔹The Colossus of Uhud: From my elevated vantage point, the mountain's massive ridge—which stretches over 7 kilometers—fills my entire field of vision. It stands as a silent witness to early Islamic history, and its sheer physical weight makes even the tallest construction projects seem temporary.
🔹Miniaturized Modernity: The yellow construction cranes, which usually dominate any city skyline, look like mere toys against the vast, rugged face of the mountain. This visual contrast highlights the "miniature" nature of human endeavor when compared to the timeless landscapes of the Hejaz.
🔹The Open-Deck Experience: Being on the open deck removes the "frame" of a standard window, allowing me to feel the change in air and the imposing shadow of the peaks as the bus approach. It turns a simple bus ride into a powerful, immersive entrance into one of Islam’s most significant historical sites.
It’s a humbling moment where the ancient world literally rises up to meet you.
Mount Uhud is a colossal, 7.5-kilometer (4.7-mile) long, reddish-granite mountain standing 1,077 meters (3,533 ft) high in northern Medina, serving as a massive, iconic backdrop. Its imposing presence dominates the landscape, featuring deep natural cisterns, steep cliffs, and serving as a revered natural monument and historic battlefield.
Mount Uhud is not a UNESCO World Heritage site. While it is a landmark of immense historical and religious importance in Saudi Arabia, it is not currently included on the official list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in the country.
Although Mount Uhud lacks this specific international designation, it remains one of the most visited heritage sites in Medina, preserved for its connection to the Battle of Uhud and its status as a "mountain of paradise" in Islamic tradition.
I believe the following photos adequately illustrate why the top deck of this HOHO bus is such a favorite for photography—it gives you an unobstructed, high-angle view that layers the different eras of Madinah into a single image.
📘The Anatomy of my "Chosen Frame"
In my humble opinion, the composition creates a powerful visual narrative:
🔹The Foreground of Life: The vibrant green date palms and manicured roadside greenery represent the modern, flourishing Madinah of today.
🔹The Spiritual Anchor: The Masjid Sayed Al-Shouhada (Master of Martyrs Mosque) stands out brilliantly. The architectural contrast of its clean white minarets and dome against the "burnt" dark brown of Mount Uhud makes the mosque look almost luminous.
🔹The Historical Stage: Right in the middle, you see Archers’ Hill (Jabal ar-Rumah). Seeing the crowds of pilgrims currently standing on it gives a sense of scale and connects the modern visitor directly to the historic battleground.
🔹The Backdrop of Eternity: The sheer, rugged mass of Mount Uhud ties everything together. Its dark, ancient surface emphasizes the "newness" of the mosque and the bustling activity on the roads below.
📘A Note on Masjid Sayed Al-Shouhada
It’s worth noting that the mosque is relatively new, having been completed around 2017. Its design was specifically chosen to be large enough to hold thousands of pilgrims while maintaining that classic white aesthetic that honors the nearby Martyrs' Cemetery, where Hamza ibn Abd al-Muttalib RA and other companions are buried.
It really is a dramatic scene—the white of the "Martyr's Mosque" almost looks like a beacon of peace set against the harsh, rocky terrain of the battlefield.
HOHO Bus Stop No.5 - Ohud Battlefield.
A view of buses lined up across the bridge over Wadi Qanat (also known as Wadi Al-Aqul). This historically significant seasonal valley runs south of Mount Uhud and has played a vital role in Madinah’s geography for centuries. The bridge is a key transit point for the City Sightseeing buses as they ferry pilgrims between the Prophet's Mosque and the Uhud battlefield.
📘The Modern View
Your photo highlights how modern Madinah has tamed this ancient landscape:
🔹Engineering vs. Nature: The sturdy concrete bridge now allows thousands of buses and cars to cross daily, completely bypassing the difficult terrain that once dictated the movements of ancient armies.
🔹The Seasonal Valley: You can see the characteristic "dry bed" of the wadi, which only fills during heavy rains. The greenery growing along the edges (bottom right) is a sign of the underground moisture that still remains in the valley floor.
🔹Mount Uhud Backdrop: The rugged peaks in your photo provide the perfect context, showing exactly how close the valley lies to the base of the mountain.
It’s a striking image that shows how Madinah manages the massive logistics of modern pilgrimage (represented by those lines of buses) while preserving the physical integrity of its most sacred historical sites.
The HOHO bus top deck provided another incredible vantage point. I managed to capture a unique 'layering' of Madinah’s history and modernity in a single frame. A perfect 'ancient-meets-modern' sandwich, a stunning visual timeline of Madinah. This one frame captures five distinct layers: the ancient Wadi Qanat, modern city amenities, the historic Archers’ Hill, the new Masjid Sayed Al-Shouhada, and the timeless peaks of Mount Uhud.
📘Deconstructing The "Timeline" Frame
🔹1st Layer: Ancient (Wadi Qanat): In the foreground, the dry, rocky bed of the wadi represents the natural, prehistoric geography that dictated the tactics of the Battle of Uhud.
🔹2nd Layer: Modern Facilities: You can see the manicured lawns, paved walkways, and distinctive brown "arched" structures. These modern amenities make the site accessible and dignified for the millions of pilgrims who visit today.
🔹3rd Layer: Ancient (Archers' Hill / Jabal ar-Rumah): The small, rocky mound covered in people is the most famous tactical location of the battle. Seeing the pilgrims standing where the archers once stood brings the history of 625 CE into the present moment.
🔹4th Layer: Modern (Masjid Sayed al-Shuhada): The white minarets and dome represent the city’s continued growth and devotion. The mosque’s clean, bright architecture acts as a visual bridge between the dusty earth below and the mountains above.
🔹5th Layer: Ancient (Mount Uhud): The final, massive backdrop of dark, jagged rock. It feels permanent and unchangeable, towering over everything else and giving the entire scene its weight.
It is a remarkable rhythm. That alternating "ancient-modern" pulse makes Madinah feel like a living museum rather than a static historical site.
This specific layering—the hop from a 7th-century wadi to a 21st-century park, then back to a 1,400-year-old hill—serves a very intentional purpose:
🔹Preservation through Modernity: The modern layers (the paved paths, the lighting, and the new mosque) act as a "protective cradle" for the ancient ones. By building modern infrastructure around the hills and valleys, the city ensures that millions can visit without eroding the very history they came to see.
🔹A Continuous Narrative: It suggests that history hasn't ended. The modern mosque is just as much a part of the "Uhud story" now as the mountain itself. You aren't just looking at the past; you are seeing how the past continues to be honored and lived in today.
🔹Visual Relief: The "sandwiching" of green lawns and white architecture between the dark, rugged earth and rocks provides a visual break that highlights just how dramatic and harsh the original landscape was.
It’s one of the few places in the world where you can see a "timeline" stacked horizontally right in front of you.
Administrative Court in the city of Al-Soura building.
Personal Status Court in Medina - محكمة الأحوال الشخصية بالمدينة المنورة
Al Noor Mall.
Cenomi - Stay tuned for the exterior facades Compatible with the identity of Medina.
Cenomi, specifically Cenomi Centers, is the largest owner, operator, and developer of contemporary shopping malls and lifestyle centers in Saudi Arabia.
HOHO Bus Stop No.7: Sultanah Road.
Masjid al-Qiblatayn.
"السوق المركزي للخضار والفاكهة" (The Central Market for Vegetables and Fruits), this is the Madina Central Market (also known as the Central Fruit and Vegetable Market) in Medina, Saudi Arabia.
This sculpture is titled "Ji'at Sharraft al-Madinah" or “I have come and honored the City”.
Masjid Quba.
Right: Al Anbariya Masjid
Al Anbariya Masjid and The Emirate of Madinah (Governor’s House).
Railway Museum.
Al Anbariya Masjid.
Railway Museum.
On the left is Mount Sela and looming at the background is the colossal Mount Uhud.
Our journey on the Red Route was more than just a convenient way to tick off landmarks like the Uhud Battlefield or Quba Mosque; it was a front-row seat to Al Madinah’s transformation. Perched on the open-top deck, we didn't just see the sites—we felt the city’s pulse. We watched the landscape shift from the timeless, preserved heritage of its sacred sites to the sprawling development of a burgeoning cosmopolitan hub. Seeing the sleek, modern infrastructure rise alongside ancient history offered a unique vantage point on how Madinah balances its spiritual soul with a bold, modern future.
As the bus pulled back toward Al Masjid an-Nabawi, we realized that the best part of the Red Route wasn't just the destinations, but the view in between. From the breeze on the top deck, we witnessed a city in bloom—a place where modernity and tradition don't just coexist, they complement one another. Whether you’re here for the history or curious about Saudi Arabia's rapid development, this tour offers a perspective of Madinah you simply can't get from the ground. It was the perfect way to wrap up our time in the City of the Prophet.
What better way to end a wonderful HOHO Bus Tour of Madinah than with a steaming cup of Karak Tea? It’s such an essential piece of Gulf culture and hospitality. Okay, so it’s the Dunkin’ version—but it still hits the spot! ☕️😄
To be continued.
Till the next coming entry, inshaAllah. Meanwhile do take care.
No photograph or videos may be reproduced, downloaded, copied, stored, manipulated, or used whole or in part of a derivative work, without written permission from Syed Amran. All rights reserved.
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