Agar Aku Tidak Lupa: SOUTH KOREA - DMZ - IMJINGAK PEACE PARK

Assalamualaikum

🔵Sudah hari ke 8 kami dalam percutian Korea Selatan. Turun awal untuk sarapan sebab kami nak ke DMZ atau Demilitarized Zone, iaitu di sempadan Korea Selatan dan Korea Utara.

🔵Tepat pukul 8:30 pagi Clara sampai dan bawa kami terus ke DMZ. Kami sudah siap-siap bawa passport sebab Clara kata passport diperlukan untuk melawat DMZ.

🔵Suasana trafik di Seoul di waktu pagi. Trafik pagi di Seoul pada umumnya sesak, terutamanya antara 7:00-9:30 am dan 5:45-7:00 pm.

🔵Hotel Bernoui Seoul yang menjadi tempat penginapan kami selama di Seoul.

🔵In Seoul, the vast majority of people live in apartments rather than houses.

🔹Apartments are the most common type of housing in the city, and this is due to a combination of factors including limited land, rapid urbanization, and the perceived benefits of apartment living.

🔹Limited Land: South Korea, especially Seoul, is a densely populated area with limited land, particularly for single-family homes.

🔹Vertical Expansion: Due to the lack of space, Seoul has expanded vertically, with high-rise apartment buildings becoming the norm.

🔹Rapid Urbanization: After the Korean War, Seoul experienced rapid economic growth and urbanization, leading to a surge in apartment construction.

🔹Perceived Benefits: Apartments are often seen as modern, well-equipped, and offering good security, parking, and access to public transportation.

🔹Cost: While land in Seoul is very expensive, apartments are generally more affordable than detached houses, especially in central areas.

🔵Kata Clara bukit ini pada asalnya adalah sebuah tapak pelupusan sampah (landfill) yang telah ditebus guna.

🔵Kiri: Sebuah gereja besar di tengah bandar Seoul.

🔵SK Energy truck.

🔹SK Energy, headquartered in Seoul, South Korea, is a leading energy and petrochemical company, primarily focused on the petroleum and chemical industries.

🔹It was originally established as Korea's first oil refinery in 1962.

🔹SK Energy is part of the larger SK Group and is known for its extensive refining capacity, global market presence, and commitment to sustainable energy solutions.

🔵There is no readily available, specific number for the total number of road tunnels within the city limits of Seoul.

🔵However, Seoul does have numerous road tunnels, some of which are quite extensive and important for traffic flow. There are also tunnels dedicated to subway lines.

🔵A golf driving range.

🔹Golf is extremely popular in Seoul and throughout South Korea.

🔹The country has experienced a significant golf boom in recent years, with both on-course and off-course activities like screen golf gaining widespread popularity.

🔹This has led to a large number of golfers, a thriving golf apparel market, and even a unique "screen golf" culture.

🔹The SKY72 Golf Club's Dream Golf Range near Incheon Airport holds the Guinness World Record for the largest golf range.

🔵Seoul Gimpo Business Aviation Center.

🔵Masuk saja highway, Clara minta kami pakai tali pinggang keledar kerana wajib masa memandu di highway.

🔵Sambil itu bertalu-talu GPS lady ingatkan Clara supaya mematuhi had laju memandu.

🔵Menuju ke Imjingak.

🔵Di atas Odusan Mountain sana ialah Odusan Unification Observatory.

🔹The Odusan Unification Observatory is located on the summit of Odusan Mountain, 118 meters above sea level, where the Han River, the lifeline of Seoul, and the Imjin River, which flows down from the North, meet.

🔹It is a military stronghold from ancient times, where the Odusan Fortress Site (Historical Site No. 351), which appears in the Samguk Sagi and Goryeo Sagi, remains.

🔹It is currently the northernmost point of the western front, and it is also the site of the regrettable division of the South and the North, which has not been able to travel the short distance of 2km across the Imjin River for over half a century.

🔹The Odusan Unification Observatory was built to contain the unification wishes of our people.

🔹Since its opening on September 8, 1992, over 19 million domestic and foreign visitors have visited the site.

🔹Odusan Unification Observatory is located on Jayu-ro where the Han River and Imjin River meet, and is a place where you can see North Korea at a glance, and where displaced people can relieve their longing for their hometown.

🔹It opened in September 1992 according to former President Roh Tae-woo's 'Peace City Plan', and is a place for unification education where you can see the site of division firsthand and feel the lives of North Korean residents.

🔹It is a place for family outings and an international unification security tourism destination that is popular with foreigners.

🔵Yes, there are apartment buildings near the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Korea.

🔹Specifically, South Korea has apartment complexes in areas like Paju, which is near the DMZ.

🔹Additionally, the North Korean side also has buildings, including apartments, in the village of Kijŏng-dong, although these have been described as largely uninhabited shells.

🔹South Korea: Paju, located near the DMZ, has seen the development of apartment buildings, particularly in areas where businesses like LG. Philips LCD have established facilities.

🔹North Korea: Kijŏng-dong, also known as "Propaganda Village," features multi-story buildings and apartment-like structures. These buildings were constructed to appear as a modern, thriving town, but are believed to be largely uninhabited and lack interior details.

🔹Living near the DMZ: While living near the DMZ in South Korea offers proximity to attractions like the DMZ and English Village, it also means living in a region with unique security considerations.

🔹Unique Villages: In addition to the larger towns, there are also small villages like Daeseong-dong (Freedom Village) within the DMZ, where residents are South Korean citizens with some special exemptions and restrictions.

🔵Di mana Sungai Han, talian hayat Seoul, dan Sungai Imjin, yang mengalir turun dari Utara, bertemu.

🔵Bunga tepi jalan yang cantik.

🔵Tiba di Imjingak.

🔵Imjingak adalah salah sebuah pintu masuk bagi melawat ke DMZ yang merupakan sebuah kawasan tentera.

🔹Sekiranya kita datang bersendirian tanpa mengikut mana-mana group tour rasmi, perjalanan kita di DMZ hanya setakat ini.

🔹Pelawat perlu bergerak secara berkumpulan untuk masuk ke kawasan Joint Security Area (JSA) yang ditadbir secara bersama oleh tentera United Nations (UN) di sebelah Korea Selatan dan tentera bersama Korea Utara-China di sebelah Korea Utara.

🔹Disebabkan hubungan Korea Selatan dengan Korea Utara memang tengah tegang ketika ini, Clara memberitahu ada tempat-tempat di DMZ yang ditutup kepada pelancong sekarang bagi tujuan keselamatan.

🔹Ada kalanya juga seluruh DMZ akan ditutup bila keadaan benar-benar tegang.

🔵Imjingak, also known as Imjingak Resort, is a park located near the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Paju, South Korea.

🔹It serves as a symbol of the Korean War and the desire for reunification between North and South Korea.

🔹The park features various monuments, statues, and remnants from the war, including the Freedom Bridge and a train that was intended to travel to North Korea.

🔵Location: Imjingak is located on the banks of the Imjin River, about 7km from the DMZ and 56km from Seoul.

🔵Purpose: Originally built in 1972 with the hope of Korean reunification, it is now a popular tourist destination and a place for reflection on the Korean War.

🔵Activities: Imjingak is a popular starting point for DMZ tours, offering a glimpse into the war and its impact, and also features a tourist information center, amusement park, and food stalls.

🔵Features:

🔹Monuments and Memorials: Imjingak is filled with monuments, statues, and memorials dedicated to the Korean War and the divided families.

🔹Mangbaedan: A place where North Korean refugees and their descendants visit to pay respects to their ancestors in their hometowns.

🔹Freedom Bridge: A bridge used by South Koreans returning from North Korea during the war.

🔹Peace Train: A train that was intended to travel to North Korea, now a symbol of the ongoing division.

🔹Pyeonghwa Nuri Park: A park within the resort with open-air stages, performance halls, and sculptures promoting peace and unification.

🔵Kami agak terkejut juga kerana ramai sebenarnya pelancong yang melawat ke DMZ ini walaupun DMZ secara teknikalnya adalah zon perang yang aktif. Tapi ianya membuatkan kami juga rasa lega lah 😅.

🔵DMZ tours are generally considered safe for tourists, despite its status as a heavily militarized border zone.

🔵While the DMZ is technically an active war zone, it is also a popular tourist destination with strict regulations and tour guides to ensure visitor safety.

🔵While the DMZ is a product of the Korean War, there has been no active fighting in the area since the armistice in 1953.

🔵So, what is DMZ or Demilitarized Zone?

🔵A demilitarized zone (DMZ) in a military context is an area where military activities, personnel, and installations are prohibited. It's essentially a buffer zone established by agreement between conflicting parties to prevent armed conflict and promote peace.

🔹Purpose: DMZs are created to separate opposing forces and prevent hostilities.

🔹Restrictions: No military personnel, weapons, or military equipment are allowed within the DMZ.

🔹Examples: The most well-known example is the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) separating North and South Korea. Other examples include the area between Iraq and Kuwait and the former demilitarized Rhineland.

🔹International Law: DMZs are often established through international agreements and are governed by rules and regulations to ensure compliance.

🔹Beyond Territorial Boundaries: DMZs can also apply to other areas, such as outer space or Antarctica, where military activity is restricted.

🔹Beyond Military Applications: The concept of a DMZ can also be applied to other areas like hospital zones or neutralized areas.

🔵Terdapat segelintir zon demilitarisasi (DMZ) yang diiktiraf di peringkat antarabangsa di seluruh dunia.

🔹Contoh yang paling menonjol ialah Zon Demiliterisasi Korea (DMZ) yang memisahkan Korea Utara dan Selatan.

🔹DMZ terkenal lain termasuk yang terletak di sempadan antara Iraq dan Kuwait.

🔹Selain itu, Antartika dianggap sebagai demilitarisasi melalui Antarctic Treaty, yang melarang aktiviti ketenteraan.

🔹Iraq-Kuwait DMZ: Selepas Persian Gulf War, Majlis Keselamatan PBB meluluskan penciptaan DMZ antara Iraq dan Kuwait.

🔹Antartika: Sistem Antarctic Treaty melarang pebinaan pangkalan tentera, manuver dan ujian senjata. Juga ditetapkan sebagai DMZ untuk memupuk penyelidikan dan kerjasama saintifik yang aman.

🔹Vietnam: Vietnam pernah mempunyai Zon Demilitarisasi (DMZ) yang bersejarah. Ia ditubuhkan pada tahun 1954 sebagai zon penampan antara Vietnam Utara dan Selatan. Walaupun DMZ rasmi wujud sehingga 1976, kawasan itu kekal sebagai tapak bersejarah penting yang berkaitan dengan Perang Vietnam.

🔹Dniester Valley Security Zone: Zon keselamatan ini ialah zon penampan demiliterisasi di sepanjang Sungai Dniester, yang ditubuhkan selepas Perang Transnistria 1992 antara Moldova dan Republik Moldavia Pridnestrovia (Transnistria) yang diisytiharkan sendiri. Ia bertujuan untuk mengekalkan keamanan dan kestabilan dengan memisahkan pihak yang berkonflik. Joint Control Commission (JCC) bertanggungjawab untuk memastikan pematuhan gencatan senjata dan pengaturan keselamatan dalam zon ini.

🔹Martín García Island: Pulau Argentina ini, dikelilingi oleh perairan Uruguay, juga merupakan zon demiliterisasi mengikut perjanjian.

🔹United Nations Buffer Zone in Cyprus: Zon demiliterisasi ini dikawal oleh United Nations Peacekeeping Force in Cyprus (UNFICYP), yang ditubuhkan pada 4 Mac 1964.

🔹DMZ antara Norway dan Sweden: Norway dan Sweden menubuhkan zon demilitarisasi (DMZ) di sepanjang sempadan kongsi mereka pada tahun 1905, berikutan pembubaran kesatuan mereka. Zon selebar 1 kilometer di setiap sisi sempadan ini telah dimansuhkan melalui persetujuan bersama pada tahun 1993.

🔹Angkasa lepas: Walaupun bukan sempadan fizikal, perjanjian antarabangsa melarang penempatan senjata pemusnah besar-besaran di angkasa lepas, dengan berkesan mewujudkan zon demiliterisasi.

🔵Kami menyerahkan passport kepada Clara untuk dia menguruskan pendaftaran lawatan kami ke JSA. Sambil menunggu Clara, kami bersiar-siar melihat suasana di sekitar.

🔵Outdoor cafe di Visitor Center.

🔵Korean Peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism Information Center.

🔵Clara masih lagi menguruskan pendaftaran lawatan kami. Jadi kami masuk ke dalam bangunan Visitor Center untuk melihat suasana di dalamnya.

🔵Information Office di dalam bangunan Visitor Center.

🔵Tour group mendengar taklimat dari tour guide.

🔹Mengunjungi Zon Demiliterisasi Korea (DMZ) memerlukan menyertai lawatan berpandu, kerana akses bersendirian tanpa tour guide adalah dilarang.

🔹Mengikut tours adalah satu-satunya cara untuk mengakses kawasan larangan dan mesti ditempah melalui pengendali pelancongan yang diberi kuasa.

🔹Pelawat mesti mematuhi peraturan ketat mengenai tingkah laku dan fotografi dalam DMZ.

🔵Peraturan dan Garis Panduan Utama untuk Melawat DMZ:

🔹Lawatan Berpandu adalah Wajib: Perjalanan bebas tidak dibenarkan. Anda mesti menempah lawatan dengan pengendali pelancongan berlesen yang termasuk pemandu dan selalunya pengiring tentera.

🔹Pasport adalah Penting: Sentiasa bawa pasport anda kerana ia akan diperiksa di beberapa tempat keselamatan.

🔹Kod Pakaian untuk JSA: Jika lawatan anda termasuk Joint Security Area (JSA), kod pakaian dikuatkuasakan. Seluar jeans koyak, pakaian mendedahkan, kasut terbuka atau pakaian gaya tentera tidak dibenarkan.

🔹Sekatan Fotografi: Fotografi dibenarkan di kawasan yang ditetapkan dan di bawah garis panduan tertentu. Pemandu pelancong anda akan memberikan arahan di mana dan apa yang anda boleh ambil gambar.

🔹Hormati Kehadiran Tentera: DMZ ialah zon ketenteraan yang aktif, jadi adalah penting untuk mengikuti semua arahan daripada pemandu dan kakitangan tentera.

🔹Berhati-hati dengan Keselamatan: Bersedia untuk pemeriksaan keselamatan dan berhati-hati dengan sifat sensitif kawasan itu.

🔵Tips untuk Melawat:

🔹Pack dengan Bijak: Bawa barang keperluan seperti pasport anda, sebarang ubat yang diperlukan dan pakaian yang sesuai untuk cuaca.

🔹Pertimbangkan Lawatan Sehari Penuh: Lawatan sehari penuh menawarkan pengalaman yang lebih komprehensif tentang DMZ dan kawasan sekitarnya.

🔹Bersedia untuk Suasana Suram: DMZ ialah peringatan negara yang berpecah belah, jadi bersiaplah untuk pengalaman yang serius dan reflektif.

🔵Bergambar di depan Korean Peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism Information Center.

🔵Clara datang menemui kami selepas selesai urusan pendaftaran. Disebabkan ada ramai pengunjung hari ini, kami mendapat tiket tour ke JSA pada pukul 1.30 tengah hari. Masa itu baru pukul 10:30 pagi.

🔵Jadi kami punya banyak masa untuk explore Imjingak Peace Park dengan santai.

🔵Pemandangan ke arah Visitor Center dari pintu masuk ke Imjingak Peace Park.

🔵First sekali di Imjingak Peace Park ini Clara bawa kami tengok sebuah loceng besar yang dinamakan Peace Bell.

🔵Kata Clara ramai rakyat Korea berharap Korea Utara dan Korea Selatan akan bersatu kembali sebagai sebuah negara selepas kedua-duanya terpisah.

🔹Ramai orang dewasa Korea Selatan seperti Clara masih mempunyai harapan ini kerana ramai di antara mereka mempunyai kaum keluarga mereka di Korea Utara semasa perang.

🔹Manakala ramai generasi muda Korea Selatan sudah tidak lagi mengekalkan harapan ini. Ini kerana mereka percaya bahawa kemakmuran Korea Selatan boleh terjejas jika mereka bersatu dengan Korea Utara.

🔵Inilah Peace Bell.

🔹Peace Bell (Loceng Keamanan) di Imjingak Peace Park di Paju ini adalah simbol harapan untuk keamanan dan penyatuan semula semenanjung Korea.

🔹Ia dibina pada tahun 2000, menandakan alaf baru dan mewakili abad ke-21 dengan 21 anak tangga dan berat 21 tan.

🔹Loceng ini adalah titik tumpuan di Imjingak, sebuah taman yang terletak berhampiran Zon Demiliterisasi (DMZ), dan berfungsi sebagai peringatan Perang Korea dan keinginan untuk penyatuan secara aman.

🔵Pengunjung juga boleh membunyikan loceng ini seperti yang tertera pada papan info di bawah.

🔵Kepentingan Sejarah: Terletak berhampiran bekas laluan kereta api yang pernah menghubungkan Seoul dan Pyongyang, Peace Bell melambangkan sambungan terputus dan harapan untuk pemulihannya.

🔵Seterusnya Clara bawa kami pula melihat cable car Peace Gondola yang dilihat dari belakang bangunan Korea Peninsula Ecological Peace Tourism Information Center ini.

🔵Cable Car yang dinamakan Peace Gondola.

🔵Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola di Imjingak Peace Park ini menawarkan perspektif unik tentang Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) dan sejarah Perang Korea.

🔹Ia merupakan gondola pertama dan satu-satunya di Korea yang merentasi Civilian Control Zone.

🔹Perjalanan dengan gondola menyediakan pemandangan DMZ dan landskap sekitarnya yang menakjubkan, di samping membolehkan pengunjung merenung tentang pembahagian Korea dan keinginan untuk penyatuan semula.

🔵Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola ini menghubungkan Imjingak Resort dan Camp Greaves.

🔹Camp Greaves pernah menjadi pangkalan Tentera AS dan kini berfungsi sebagai tapak budaya dan sejarah.

🔵Dari gondola itu pengunjung boleh melihat Sungai Imjin, pagar kawat berduri, pos pengawasan, dan sisa-sisa bahagian Korea yang lain.

🔵The gondola features both regular and transparent crystal cabins, offering different viewing experiences.

🔵Di DMZ ini, kita boleh melihat kawasan pertanian.

🔹Ia adalah milik penduduk tempatan yang telah tinggal di sini sejak perang, kata Clara.

🔹Mereka boleh terus tinggal dan bercucuk tanam di kawasan ini, tetapi hanya dengan kebenaran khas yang memerlukan kad pengenalan yang dikeluarkan oleh kerajaan.

🔹Pemegang kad pengenalan ini juga dikecualikan daripada kerahan tentera yang mesti dilakukan oleh semua lelaki Korea Selatan.

🔵The Civilian Control Zone (CCZ) in Korea is a restricted area established south of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), a buffer zone between North and South Korea.

🔹It was created to protect military facilities and operations, and it involves restrictions on civilian access and activities.

🔹The CCZ is defined by the Civilian Control Line (CCL), which lies approximately 10 kilometers south of the Military Demarcation Line (MDL).

🔵Detailed breakdown:

🔹Purpose: The CCZ was initially established to limit civilian access and agricultural activities near the MDL, but it has evolved to serve as a security buffer zone.

🔹Location: It's located between the DMZ and the CCL.

🔹Civilian Control Line (CCL): This line restricts public access in the area.

🔹Military Demarcation Line (MDL): The CCL is located about 10km south of the MDL, which is the actual border between North and South Korea.

🔹Restrictions: While civilian access is restricted, it's not entirely prohibited. Some civilians, particularly those involved in agriculture, are permitted to enter and reside in the area with authorization.

🔹Historical Context: The CCL was first drawn in 1954 by the US Army and has been adjusted over time to reduce the size of the CCZ.

🔵Imjin Bridge juga boleh dilihat dari sini. Ia telah runtuh akibat dibom semasa Perang Korea. Satu masa dahulu, jambatan ini menyambungkan Korea Utara dengan Korea Selatan.

🔵Next kami ke Stones of Peace Wall ini.

🔵About the wall.

🔵Koleksi batu dari 86 buah medan perang di 64 buah negara.

🔵Ada juga batu dari Malaysia iaitu batu no. 49 ini yang berasal dari tapak Pacific War sewaktu Perang Dunia Kedua.

🔹Pencerobohan Jepun di Tanah Melayu dan pertempuran yang berlaku menandakan permulaan rasmi Pacific War dan permulaan pendudukan Jepun di Tanah Melayu.